Ask The Expert- Troubleshooting P0457 after EVAP relocation

[russebp]

What recommendations does everyone have for troubleshooting an evap leak?

After relocating the EVAP canister with the MetalCloak bracket, I immediately got the gas cap warning. A couple of trips later, it turned into a P0457 check engine light (EVAP system leak detected).

I checked that I'd tightened everything, cleared the codes, but got the gas cap warning again as soon as the key was in.
I took everything off and put it back together again, with a helping of silicone grease for the o-ring on the vapor leak detection pump. I tightened everything up again, cleared the codes, but again got the gas cap warning, which turns into a P0457.

Before I buy or build a smoke test apparatus, are there other things I should check? Should I worry about the slight kinks in the bottom left evap hose? I was inadvertently rough with the leak detection pump to clock it for installation, and it looks like the silicone grease has come out from that o-ring connection. Should I duct tape it up to see if that's my leak? I've also got my eye on the connection from the hard tube coming from the fuel filler, where it connects to the rubber hose to the evap.

Which steps would you take next?

 

[Pthorpe84]

I have really struggled with this myself. Mine has shown that code for over a year and I have done everything but replace the damn thing. I can get the code to go away for about a day or so by adjusting the angle of the large connection with the hose and connector feeding into it. If you fine a fix, I would love to hear it.

And yes I did check my gas cap too lol

 

[TJDon]

That white colored box there in the canister is the EISM. There is a spring valve in it that causes a lot of leak codes. I’ve replaced dozens of them. But also make for certain that the canister is being mounted in the exact “as it was” position before you moved it. Gravity will screw it up and cause a light to come on

 

[Pthorpe84]

That white colored box there in the canister is the EISM. There is a spring valve in it that causes a lot of leak codes. I’ve replaced dozens of them. But also make for certain that the canister is being mounted in the exact “as it was” position before you moved it. Gravity will screw it up and cause a light to come on

That makes some sense. I know mine is not sitting exactly level.

Can the spring valve be cleaned if it’s just getting hung up?

 

[TJDon]

That makes some sense. I know mine is not sitting exactly level.

Can the spring valve be cleaned if it’s just getting hung up?

It’s a sealed unit. If you do replace it. Get the green rubber seal also

 

[russebp]

Thank you for the guidance, @TJDon.

 

[russebp]

Update: I'm cautiously optimistic that I solved my issue with just a simple battery disconnect.

I disconnected the battery for a few days over the Thanksgiving weekend to strip, prep, and coat bedliner in the tub of the JK. When I put it all back together and took it out for a test drive, the Jeep didn't complain about the gas cap immediately on startup. I've taken it on a couple of around-the-block trips without it popping up, so I'm hopeful the check engine light is behind me. If the battery disconnect was i the answer though, what a stubborn code it was to not even flinch when cleared with the programmer tool.

 

[russebp]

Several trips and a tank of gas later, it seems the issue was resolved with the simple battery disconnect.

 

[El Sanchimoto]

I put off doing my EVAP relocation after reading this thread... Might have to pick it up after the holidays.

 

[Pthorpe84]

Several trips and a tank of gas later, it seems the issue was resolved with the simple battery disconnect.

Keep us posted. I thought I had fixed mine earlier in the year. Drove to Moab for the adventure, wheeled, and got part of the way back home....and bam the dang light kicked back on. So frustrating.

 

[Brokeagin]

I am interested in what you find out also. I did not relocate mine but I did put it in a Poison Spyder skid and occasionally I get the code on start up. If I turn the job off and clear the code with my FlashCal it will stay off for a while. Mostly just an annoyance more than anything.

 

[87FoRunner]

Sometimes the canister gets liquid fuel or contaminants in them and die. This was the case with mine and a simple $20 replacement from the parts store fixed me up.

I’m not normally one to throw parts at problems, but, in this case it was obvious my cam was heavy and sloshy.

 

[Vloesche]

What recommendations does everyone have for troubleshooting an evap leak?

After relocating the EVAP canister with the MetalCloak bracket, I immediately got the gas cap warning. A couple of trips later, it turned into a P0457 check engine light (EVAP system leak detected).

I checked that I'd tightened everything, cleared the codes, but got the gas cap warning again as soon as the key was in.
I took everything off and put it back together again, with a helping of silicone grease for the o-ring on the vapor leak detection pump. I tightened everything up again, cleared the codes, but again got the gas cap warning, which turns into a P0457.

Before I buy or build a smoke test apparatus, are there other things I should check? Should I worry about the slight kinks in the bottom left evap hose? I was inadvertently rough with the leak detection pump to clock it for installation, and it looks like the silicone grease has come out from that o-ring connection. Should I duct tape it up to see if that's my leak? I've also got my eye on the connection from the hard tube coming from the fuel filler, where it connects to the rubber hose to the evap.

Which steps would you take next?

View attachment 1584
View attachment 1585

I had both the evap leak lights and gas cap sensor activated after relocating my canister. To address the evap leak light, I replaced the plastic clamps with stainless steel metal ones. The gas cap light was more tricky but after trying different fixes I finally found one. Metalcloak has you rotate the little white canister on the front of the evap canister. It is located in the bottom position and is rotated into a top position during the install. I discovered that rotating it back into the bottom stock position was the fix. I have not had the lights reactivating since putting it back into the stock location. The sensors located in the little box must be very sensitive to the factory location.