Ask The Expert- 3 Link Rear Upgrade JKU?

I currently have a long arm with King coilovers, would upgrading to a rear 3 link rear yield any benefits?

-Does one lend more to flexing?
-Road Manners?
-Durabilty?
-Would you switch your setup if you could?

I only know the basics, and I know a 3 link can be ugly if it breaks on the trail right? But are there pro's as well? Rock Krawler's big suspension upgrade is a 3 link right? Would you run it?

Or a double triangulated 4-link to get rid of the track bar?

I currently have a long arm with King coilovers, would upgrading to a rear 3 link rear yield any benefits?

-Does one lend more to flexing? Only if you are currently having binding issues with a 4 link.
-Road Manners? I have seen a lot of feedback going both ways. I personally have not driving this set up so I will not say.
-Durabilty? As you said below it will be really ugly if the single bolt breaks or the truss fails. There is a lot of leverage on that mount and I am not a fan of that setup.
-Would you switch your setup if you could? If you are currently fighting binding issues it might be worth looking at. If you are not you will not gain anything.

I only know the basics, and I know a 3 link can be ugly if it breaks on the trail right? But are there pro's as well? Rock Krawler's big suspension upgrade is a 3 link right? Would you run it?

Or a double triangulated 4-link to get rid of the track bar?

Between the 2 options I would go triangulated and ditch the rear track bar. That is however more involved because you have to address the fuel tank.

Danco3636 said:

I currently have a long arm with King coilovers, would upgrading to a rear 3 link rear yield any benefits?

-Does one lend more to flexing?
-Road Manners?
-Durabilty?
-Would you switch your setup if you could?

I only know the basics, and I know a 3 link can be ugly if it breaks on the trail right? But are there pro's as well? Rock Krawler's big suspension upgrade is a 3 link right? Would you run it?

Or a double triangulated 4-link to get rid of the track bar?

Click to expand...

Cloaked Willys said:

I currently have a long arm with King coilovers, would upgrading to a rear 3 link rear yield any benefits?

-Does one lend more to flexing? Only if you are currently having binding issues with a 4 link.
-Road Manners? I have seen a lot of feedback going both ways. I personally have not driving this set up so I will not say.
-Durabilty? As you said below it will be really ugly if the single bolt breaks or the truss fails. There is a lot of leverage on that mount and I am not a fan of that setup.
-Would you switch your setup if you could? If you are currently fighting binding issues it might be worth looking at. If you are not you will not gain anything.

I only know the basics, and I know a 3 link can be ugly if it breaks on the trail right? But are there pro's as well? Rock Krawler's big suspension upgrade is a 3 link right? Would you run it?

Or a double triangulated 4-link to get rid of the track bar?

Between the 2 options I would go triangulated and ditch the rear track bar. That is however more involved because you have to address the fuel tank.

Click to expand...

Awesome thanks for the detailed explanation and feed back.
No binding issues now. Had it up on the Metalcloak CTI trailor and found no binding on either side flexing.
Was just learning of options.
Again thanks and I'll keep my current set up.

No problem at all. Glad to hear that your current set up is working well.

Road manners, i know with coil springs its important to run a swaybar. Without from what i read can cause a scary ride. I dont know about CO's but with ORI's you dont need one.
Durability, i guess it depends on the setup. Ive heard of people removing a link and using the stock mounts on the other. RK's rear uses a bridge and a plenty strong Artec mount on top. The frame end is welded next to the gas tank with adjustable anti squat positions.


2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.

Only item that concerns me with a 3 link is if an arm is damaged you are screwed if you do not have a spare. Just a thought.


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I would carry a spare lol


2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.