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  1. #1
    Moderator Pthorpe84's Avatar
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    TeraFlex Hub and Full Float Conversion

    Ok so I am a little excited about this. To me this is a great way to be able to run 38's with out the worry of destroying your axles. I am curious at what limits you will still have as far as maximum tire size. I would think this would put your R&P your weakest link on the axle. That to me is the down side. But with the stress of the axle supporting all the weight and torque greatly reduced, one would think you could run 37" and taller tires. Me personally being a fan of the 38" this is a great option for someone who doesnt have the money for D60+ full floaters. Even with that said....you could do the Fusion 4X4 14 Bolt for $3700 in the rear and do the the Tera Full Float conversion for $1800 in the front. That puts you at $5,500 to run 38-40 decently safe. I would think this is similar to the ProRock 44/Semi 60 set up.....I can almost hear the fan boys coming for me.....

    So the question I pose is 1.) how mush strength is actually gained 2.} Can you run 38-40" tires with out the worry of destroying everything. 3.) Is it worth it overall?

    anything else you have is more than welcomed. I would love to hear from Teraflex on this or someone with a strong understanding of this conversion.

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  3. #2
    Jeep Fanatic timatoe's Avatar
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    1) Minimal because you still have u-joints and the housing strength to contend with
    2) I would say no!
    3) No!

    For $1,800 you could do a front 60, little more if you wanted it to be all pimped out and shortened up to stock width. I wouldn't drop that kind of money into a stock axle.

    All that being said, I'm not a JK Owner, so my advice is based on YJ budget and building.
    Last edited by timatoe; 08-29-2016 at 10:16 PM.

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  5. #3
    Jeep Fanatic Kjeeper10's Avatar
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    Theres guys that run Spyntec (spelling) and say the TF's is a better design. I think TF hit a home run with this conversion.. Price is crazy though.


    2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.
    2 Door black JK - 3.5 RK X`factor - 37x12.5x17 MTRs - SteerSmarts Yeti steering - Rancho 5000x shocks 31/30 w/ EVO Rockstars - VKS sliders - Adams driveshaft - Savvy aluminum half doors

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  7. #4
    Moderator Pthorpe84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kjeeper10 View Post
    Theres guys that run Spyntec (spelling) and say the TF's is a better design. I think TF hit a home run with this conversion.. Price is crazy though.


    2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.
    What advantages are there though? Does it really allow for anything more 37's. If it doesn't there is no reason to really do the conversion. Thoughts?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2015 JKU Hard Rock, 3.5" Game Changer-Rock Sport, 37" Toyo M/T, Overline Fenders, M/C Full Stinger Bumper, GenRight Fusion Rear Stubby Bumper, Poison Spyder Tire Carrier, M/C Rock Sliders, Warn Power Plant HD, Viair Constant Duty with Tank, 17" ATX Slabs, Evo Skid Plates, Cheap Chinese Lights, Factor 55 Flat Link, ApolloIntec Switch Pod, 48" Hi-Lift, Dynomax Exhaust

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  8. #5
    Jeep Fanatic Kjeeper10's Avatar
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    Front you have strength plus the ability to unlock the axle from the drivetrain. Rear makes it full float over our semi float flange bending axles lol


    2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.
    2 Door black JK - 3.5 RK X`factor - 37x12.5x17 MTRs - SteerSmarts Yeti steering - Rancho 5000x shocks 31/30 w/ EVO Rockstars - VKS sliders - Adams driveshaft - Savvy aluminum half doors

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