Ask The Expert- Correct Grease for Joints

I bring this up because we have many people on our tool forum talking about their grease guns leaking oil. We also have some commenting that their Jeeps and Trucks drip oil from the joints.

In the past, I too have had these issue, BUT, I quickly changed grease to a higher quality and the problem solved itself.

In our applications for Jeeps, in universals and steering joints, what is your recommended grease?

Also, if your willing, can we dive into synthetic grease and high temperature grease and the different applications. Essentially, can one grease do it all.

I have converted to using Redline CV2 grease for my drivelines and tie rod ends. It will still separate and drip out of the gun and I have yet to find a grease that won't. :dunno:
This is a high pressure and high heat tolerant lube that works well with the metal on metal tie rod ends.

I am running the Duro-Flex joints in both my Dodge 2500 and my Wagon project. They use a different lube.

Lucas Red and Tackey is not my fav, but it wont drip.

John Deere General Purpose Green grease will not drip, but is not high temp.

I use either the Amsoil NLGI#1 or the Dominator racing grease.

The #1 does not seem to drip oil. It is very thick and tacky though.
They also have a NLGI#2 I am going to try.
The #1 is recommended for applications below 40F and the #2 for above 40F.

Todd

Application below 40 degrees F? Is it for a refrigerator?

Brian said:

Lucas Red and Tackey is not my fav, but it wont drip.

John Deere General Purpose Green grease will not drip, but is not high temp.

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I have a puddle under the gun that has red and tacky in it. Granted it did take a while longer to start dripping then a lot of the other greases that I have used. It is also what I will fall back on if I run out of the Red line stuff and need more in a hurry.

I have not used any of the John Deer stuff so I have not reference point on it. My only thing would be watching what it gets used in if it is not high temp. The thing I see most often is wheel bearings getting lubed with grease not rated for the heat.

Brian said:

Application below 40 degrees F? Is it for a refrigerator?

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Low temp climates cause their own issues.

Cloaked Willys said:

I have a puddle under the gun that has red and tacky in it. Granted it did take a while longer to start dripping then a lot of the other greases that I have used. It is also what I will fall back on if I run out of the Red line stuff and need more in a hurry.

I have not used any of the John Deer stuff so I have not reference point on it. My only thing would be watching what it gets used in if it is not high temp. The thing I see most often is wheel bearings getting lubed with grease not rated for the heat.



Low temp climates cause their own issues.

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I guess you need to use your grease faster and more often.


But he is in California. Does it ever get 40 degrees there.

Todd Ockert said:

I use either the Amsoil NLGI#1 or the Dominator racing grease.

The #1 does not seem to drip oil. It is very thick and tacky though.
They also have a NLGI#2 I am going to try.
The #1 is recommended for applications below 40F and the #2 for above 40F.

Todd

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I haven't used their greases but do run their oil in most of my engines and in my manual transmissions. I would like to know what you think of the #2 once you use it.

Brian said:

I guess you need to use your grease faster and more often.

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I have had to finish a rig and run out of grease before. King pin rebuilds use more then you think and I have learned to make sure I have a couple of tubes at the house.

Brian said:

But he is in California. Does it ever get 40 degrees there.

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We get about a week in the 30's......

The temperature range for the NLGI#1 is 30 - 104F.
In the middle of the summer here, I am probably stressing this grease pretty good.
I have never had any problems with it though running out as a liquid from the joints or the trailer bearings.
I just ordered some of the #2 and when I repack the trailer bearings next weekend, I will see how it lasts.
We are getting ready for a 3000 mile trip with the Jeep on the trailer.
It will be a good test.
I will also give a little report on the stuff that is currently in the trailer bearings and how it looks and feels.
I hand repack these, so I will get a good look at the bearings.

Todd

Anybody use Synergy's grease ?


2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.

Kjeeper10 said:

Anybody use Synergy's grease ?

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I suspect it is rebranded from another company but they don't give any specs to tell what it is other then NLGI rated GC-LB.

Todd Ockert said:

......
We are getting ready for a 3000 mile trip with the Jeep on the trailer.
It will be a good test.
I will also give a little report on the stuff that is currently in the trailer bearings and how it looks and feels.
I hand repack these, so I will get a good look at the bearings.

Todd

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Little off topic, but how often do you repack the trailer bearings? Just wondering as I've made two trips to Moab and a trip down your way to Swamp Lake on the trailer, thinking it's probably time.

timatoe said:

Little off topic, but how often do you repack the trailer bearings? Just wondering as I've made two trips to Moab and a trip down your way to Swamp Lake on the trailer, thinking it's probably time.

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My boat axles get done each year, just because they are in and out of water. My dump trailer would be done every 5 to 7 years as I can grease them through the zerk. With the correct grease and not overloading the axle, they go years.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

timatoe said:

Little off topic, but how often do you repack the trailer bearings? Just wondering as I've made two trips to Moab and a trip down your way to Swamp Lake on the trailer, thinking it's probably time.

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If we do a lot of trips with the trailer and Jeep, I will repack them twice a year.
It is not that I don't have faith in the grease holding up, I just don't want bearing failure on the road.
Had one once, and had to haul the trailer home minus one wheel and go back and flat tow the Jeep home.

I am sure the bearings will hold up for a couple of years, but just want to catch a failure prior to having to replace bearings and the axle itself.

Todd

Brian said:

My boat axles get done each year, just because they are in and out of water. My dump trailer would be done every 5 to 7 years as I can grease them through the zerk. With the correct grease and not overloading the axle, they go years.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

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Not all axle assemblies put the grease with the zerk where it should though.
When I replaced the axle stub, it came with the zerk fitting.
I tried it prior to putting the wheel on, and it put the grease behind the bearing and not into the bearing where it would do any good.

Todd

Todd Ockert said:

Not all axle assemblies put the grease with the zerk where it should though.
When I replaced the axle stub, it came with the zerk fitting.
I tried it prior to putting the wheel on, and it put the grease behind the bearing and not into the bearing where it would do any good.

Todd

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The grease hole or input should be behind the rear bearing so when grease in put in, it goes through the rear bearing, into the center, then through the front bearing and out around the grease zerk. The issue with these is some will put in just enough grease to move the bad grease from the rear bearing to the front one and not flush the system.

There is nothing wrong with packing bearings a few times a year for preventative maint, but I grease my trailer every other use or so so I do not have issues with bad grease and it saves me time. With the battery operated grease gun, I can set an equal amount to be put in each hub each time I grease.

Everyone does things different and 99% of the time, they all work!

Thanks guys. That's one of those things, I don't think about till I'm in the middle of nowhere on Hwy 50 between home and Moab.....