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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryG View Post
    Which 4-1/2" kit are you running? The gamechanger mid-arm or the long arm?
    4.5” gamechanger coils. Long arm vs short arm is irrelevant however i am running clayton long arms


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  2. #22
    Moderator Pthorpe84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marine660 View Post
    D44s so stock width (for sale BTW) and spyderlock wheels with 3.5” backspacing




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    I agreed with you on stock axles. But full width tons should not be a problem.

    I assume you are selling the spyderlocks as well?
    2015 JKU Hard Rock, 3.5" Game Changer-Rock Sport, 37" Toyo M/T, Overline Fenders, M/C Full Stinger Bumper, GenRight Fusion Rear Stubby Bumper, Poison Spyder Tire Carrier, M/C Rock Sliders, Warn Power Plant HD, Viair Constant Duty with Tank, 17" ATX Slabs, Evo Skid Plates, Cheap Chinese Lights, Factor 55 Flat Link, ApolloIntec Switch Pod, 48" Hi-Lift, Dynomax Exhaust

    https://www.instagram.com/4lotested/

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pthorpe84 View Post
    I agreed with you on stock axles. But full width tons should not be a problem.

    I assume you are selling the spyderlocks as well?
    Yes, they are spoken for already.


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  5. #24
    Jeep Owner GaryG's Avatar
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    Just curious if you noticed any handling quirks when you went to the long arms...

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2016 JKUR Soft top, 3-1/2" Gamechanger w/rocksports, 35x12.50 BFG KM2's, 5.13 gears, Procomp Vapor Pro 2 Beadlocks, JCR Crusader front bumper, rear bumper w/carrier, rock sliders, and fenders flares w/front liners, Poison Spider front sport cage, 10k synthetic winch, Rockhard oil pan and trans skid, EVO sway bar disconnect motor delete, C-gussets and lower arm braces, Spiderweb shade.

  6. #25
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    Long arms should handle better and not have any quirks. You should expect a more comfortable ride both on road and off as you reduce the amount of axle shift that occurs during articulation. You can however get more brake dive and squat during acceleration depending on where the frame side control arms mount and you can get pinion angle issues on kits that use too short an upper arm. For rock crawling most long arm kits create some clearance issues because the arms hang down so low.

    As for lift size vs axle width if you want to stay low and maintain full steer with a good scrub radius 72" wms axles with 4.5"x9" wheels are the sweet spot if you are running 40"x13.5" tires.

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  8. #26
    Moderator Pthorpe84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
    depending on where the frame side control arms mount and you can get pinion angle issues on kits that use too short an upper arm.
    In your opinion what is the optimum location? I know there are many variables. But let’s just go with the average bolt on kits. What should we look out for?



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2015 JKU Hard Rock, 3.5" Game Changer-Rock Sport, 37" Toyo M/T, Overline Fenders, M/C Full Stinger Bumper, GenRight Fusion Rear Stubby Bumper, Poison Spyder Tire Carrier, M/C Rock Sliders, Warn Power Plant HD, Viair Constant Duty with Tank, 17" ATX Slabs, Evo Skid Plates, Cheap Chinese Lights, Factor 55 Flat Link, ApolloIntec Switch Pod, 48" Hi-Lift, Dynomax Exhaust

    https://www.instagram.com/4lotested/

  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryG View Post
    Just curious if you noticed any handling quirks when you went to the long arms...

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    No, handling actually improved a-lot!


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  10. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pthorpe84 View Post
    In your opinion what is the optimum location? I know there are many variables. But let’s just go with the average bolt on kits. What should we look out for?



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    In my opinion you need to have the lower frame side mounts as close to the output shaft u joint. The uppers should be at least 80% the length of the lowers and the closer they get to the same length the less union change you get. If you have the mounts in this location your pinion will stay pointed at your transfer case thru out the articulation range

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  12. #29
    Jeep Owner GaryG's Avatar
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    So, is the goal (to reduce driveline vibration) to keep the front diff pinion flange and the front t-case pinion flange as parallel as possible during full articulation? If so, I think the four-link would better accomplish this.
    If it is to keep the front diff pinion flange pointed at the t-case then I think the lock-n-load would do a better job of that.
    Am I visualizing that correctly?
    Which should be my priority?

    Thanks again for any information.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2016 JKUR Soft top, 3-1/2" Gamechanger w/rocksports, 35x12.50 BFG KM2's, 5.13 gears, Procomp Vapor Pro 2 Beadlocks, JCR Crusader front bumper, rear bumper w/carrier, rock sliders, and fenders flares w/front liners, Poison Spider front sport cage, 10k synthetic winch, Rockhard oil pan and trans skid, EVO sway bar disconnect motor delete, C-gussets and lower arm braces, Spiderweb shade.

  13. #30
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    It really depends on the overall set up. Tire clearance, shocks travel, what you are going to do with it, budget. Frame side mounts and upper to lower arm lengths will determine pinion change. Either set up can be done to keep the angles lined up to prevent vibration or bind. You have to realize how a u-joint gets weaker as the angle increases.

    Because of the design of the JK and the trend to have LCG and 40" tires driveline angles are often ignored. Most companies concentrate on long travel instead of looking at the overall and typically give too much droop to gain that long travel. Metal cloak is the only company that I know of that addresses this by the use of the high clearance fenders and 6 pack shocks (even though I don't recommend the 6 pack). They build that set up for up travel as well as overall long travel that keeps the driveline angles in check.

    I see you have a pretty complete set up and not sure what you are wanting to accomplish with a long arm but really if you are not having any issues you are throwing away money with a new kit. You are not going to see much improvement from a long arm in terms of performance. If any it would be better ride on the road.

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