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  1. #1
    Jeep Owner GaryG's Avatar
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    JKUR MC long travel, lock n load or 4-link

    Looking for comments and observations on these two kits. Going to 5-1/2" with rocksports and want to hear some real world comments about both styles. I like that the lock n load doesn't require welding and addresses binding but it looks like it puts all the stress on the two mounts. Any feedback is appreciated, still trying to make up my mind
    2016 JKUR Soft top, 3-1/2" Gamechanger w/rocksports, 35x12.50 BFG KM2's, 5.13 gears, Procomp Vapor Pro 2 Beadlocks, JCR Crusader front bumper, rear bumper w/carrier, rock sliders, and fenders flares w/front liners, Poison Spider front sport cage, 10k synthetic winch, Rockhard oil pan and trans skid, EVO sway bar disconnect motor delete, C-gussets and lower arm braces, Spiderweb shade.

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  3. #2
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    Are you planning on installing a caster corrected axle at that height? Steering may be a big issue if not addressed.

  4. #3
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    Iím a fan of longer arms when itís an option.

  5. #4
    Jeep Owner GaryG's Avatar
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    Good question dirtman, I'm glad you brought it up. I was under the assumption (I know... I should know better by now) that the adjustment on the upper and lower arms would allow me to keep the camber in check. Is it a known issue at that height?
    2016 JKUR Soft top, 3-1/2" Gamechanger w/rocksports, 35x12.50 BFG KM2's, 5.13 gears, Procomp Vapor Pro 2 Beadlocks, JCR Crusader front bumper, rear bumper w/carrier, rock sliders, and fenders flares w/front liners, Poison Spider front sport cage, 10k synthetic winch, Rockhard oil pan and trans skid, EVO sway bar disconnect motor delete, C-gussets and lower arm braces, Spiderweb shade.

  6. #5
    Jeep Owner GaryG's Avatar
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    "Caster", not camber...

  7. #6
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    I think dirtman was more referring to the balancing act needed to keep caster in check while still having a decent pinion angle. The stock axles only provide 6 degrees of separation, so if your caster is decent at 5 degrees, that only gives you 1 degree of angle on your pinion. Which at 5.5" of lift will likely not be enough to prevent a driveline vibration on a double cardan joint. And I doubt the stock rzeppa driveshaft would last long running constantly at those angles either.

    Hence dirtman asked if you were doing a caster corrected housing, which would allow 9-10 degrees of separation. Another option could be the teraflex high angle rzeppa joint - even better if you put it on a Tatton driveshaft that's more impact resistant than the stock one.

    Btw what size tires you putting under that 5.5" lift?

  8. #7
    Moderator Pthorpe84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chitown35 View Post
    And I doubt the stock rzeppa driveshaft would last long running constantly at those angles either.



    Btw what size tires you putting under that 5.5" lift?

    Chunk the damn stock drive lines. Garbage with long travel suspensions.

    Gary will be running the all new KM3ís in 31ís. But donít worry he will be running tons. So it will look good at that height.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2015 JKU Hard Rock, 3.5" Game Changer-Rock Sport, 37" Toyo M/T, Overline Fenders, M/C Full Stinger Bumper, GenRight Fusion Rear Stubby Bumper, Poison Spyder Tire Carrier, M/C Rock Sliders, Warn Power Plant HD, Viair Constant Duty with Tank, 17" ATX Slabs, Evo Skid Plates, Cheap Chinese Lights, Factor 55 Flat Link, ApolloIntec Switch Pod, 48" Hi-Lift, Dynomax Exhaust

    https://www.instagram.com/4lotested/

  9. #8
    Jeep Owner GaryG's Avatar
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    Lol, thanks for chiming in Phil. 31's would make even the mall a challenge!

    Thanks chitown for the lengthier explanation, I'm still learning. I was planning on replacing the drive shafts and thought the double cardon would handle it. I'll look into those rzeppa high angle units.
    I'm keeping the stock 44 for now so I wasn't going larger than 37's to keep abuse down. I can't afford axles and lift together...
    I'm looking to increase ground clearance with the longer wheelbase JKU, with the 3-1/2 and 35's I'm using the sliders and skids more than I like. I want the wheels in contact with the ground more on the harder stuff.
    2016 JKUR Soft top, 3-1/2" Gamechanger w/rocksports, 35x12.50 BFG KM2's, 5.13 gears, Procomp Vapor Pro 2 Beadlocks, JCR Crusader front bumper, rear bumper w/carrier, rock sliders, and fenders flares w/front liners, Poison Spider front sport cage, 10k synthetic winch, Rockhard oil pan and trans skid, EVO sway bar disconnect motor delete, C-gussets and lower arm braces, Spiderweb shade.

  10. #9
    Moderator Pthorpe84's Avatar
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    JKUR MC long travel, lock n load or 4-link

    Gary, a 4.5Ē lift is more than enough. Especially if you are going to stay at 40ís or less. Heck even 3.5Ē is enough(thatís what she said...never!). But I get the allure of the 6Ē lifts. Trust me I have even thought about it.

    The biggest thing you need to do to those stock axles is get the Cís gusseted. They are the weakest link. Then get prepared for Ball Joints. You will burn the stock ones up with in a few thousand miles and 37ís....35ís for that matter. Especially if you wheel.

    Also, a lift will only give you more belly clearance. Bigger tires will give you more over all clearance. Get the 37ís and keep the 3.5Ē for now. Maybe upgrade a few things on your suspension. 6-paks or even coil overs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2015 JKU Hard Rock, 3.5" Game Changer-Rock Sport, 37" Toyo M/T, Overline Fenders, M/C Full Stinger Bumper, GenRight Fusion Rear Stubby Bumper, Poison Spyder Tire Carrier, M/C Rock Sliders, Warn Power Plant HD, Viair Constant Duty with Tank, 17" ATX Slabs, Evo Skid Plates, Cheap Chinese Lights, Factor 55 Flat Link, ApolloIntec Switch Pod, 48" Hi-Lift, Dynomax Exhaust

    https://www.instagram.com/4lotested/

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  12. #10
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    I will respectfully disagree on the going through ball joints on 37’s. My experience may be unusual, but I have had 35’s on since day one of my Jeep, and did for 30,000 miles. I switched to 37’s and have had them for about 8000 miles, and had no problems with ball joints. I usually run trails that are rated 6 or 7 in Moab or Sand Hollow and go to each location at least twice a year. I also tend to run more difficult trails in Arizona on a semi weekly basis. I have had more trouble breaking shock mounts than with Ball Joints,

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