Bump stops

austin160

Jeep Owner
I have the MC Gamechanger 3.5 with trimmed stock flares and 37's. I haven't had the chance to really flex it to check the bump stops yet, until the other day. I flexed on my buddy's tire, 35", and was hitting the bump stop. Going by the MC chart stock flares require 4", which is what I installed. Overline flares are 2". Should I split the difference and go with 3 to keep it off the metal tab under the fender, or can I drop 2" to have the travel?
 

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austin160

Jeep Owner
No. There was still room between the tab and tire. I figured that was the reason for the suggested 4 stops on the Metal Cloak install instructions. I don't have a jack tall enough to flex it out, that's the reason it has been two months to finally check it out.
 

Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
The 4" of bump is for uncut stock fenders. If I were you, I would go to 3" of bump and take a look at the clearance. Keep your bumps at a minimum. I have no lift and 37's and I'm running 2" up front and 3" in the rear of I remember correctly.

Also, check your pinch seam in the rear. I had to trim mine at the front and rear of the fender well.


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Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
Correction. I am at 1" front and 2" rear. I know it's a little different due to my set up, but you can go much less than what you have.


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austin160

Jeep Owner
So, I dropped to 2" on bump stops front and rear. I can stuff the front, may go up to three to make up for it.

After the last wheeling trip both of my front tires had contacted sheet metal on the front edge of the fender, bending the right corner in. Do i also need to look at shortening my lower control arms to bring the wheels back towards the center? They are set at the suggest lengths now, but I shortened the uppers to get the alignment into specs.
 

Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
Do i also need to look at shortening my lower control arms to bring the wheels back towards the center? They are set at the suggest lengths now, but I shortened the uppers to get the alignment into specs.
Nope, you need to break out the hammer and start beating some sheet metal. You start messing with your control arms too much and your caster will be off and could cause a multitude of other issues. Trim the sheet metal and paint it black. Problem fixed. Trust me.


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mrwildebeast

Jeep Owner
You'll need to consider that, if you use a fork lift to pull a corner up for the purposes of bump stop setting, its not the same as doing it in a CTI sort of way , where you articulate front and rear equally, you'll find that the tire position within the arches wont be the same specially rear where its tighter. Up front I'd remove the fender tab, even if you still have the stock fender, the tire will want to rub on it. I run 37s with 6 packs on a 4.5 lift so the shock is not limiting for me, but with the rocksports you want to make sure with your bumps that youre protecting the shock from full compresssion. You want your bumpstops tuned to the hard bump not the soft bump.
 

mrwildebeast

Jeep Owner
Also, If you feel that you can get clearance by bringing the Front axle rearward, for example if you're touching the OE sheetmetal fender, thats not a problem ( see photo below ). However, as mentioned by others, you don't want to change the Castor angle inadvertently The front control arms have different thread pitches, so If you want to move the axle back a 1/4 iinch, you'll go three full threads on the lowers and Three and a half thread rotations on the uppers, then. you won't be changing Castor. In the pic below, you can see what I did in the way of trimming, you should do the easy trimming first before moving axles around. also bear in mind that if you have a Sump skid you'll need to ensure the axle center housing does not contact the skid under articulation if you move the axle rearward.IMGP0186.jpg,
 
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